Wood Working project

My "prototype" turning saw finally died. It was a quick and dirty project that was never intended to last. The original idea was to work out the bugs in the design, and then move on and make/use a nicer saw. It didnt end up that way. In fact the prototype was superior, and was my turning saw of choice over the years while the "nicer" saw hung on the wall.

Heres a shot of the DOA saw:


The epoxy that held the brass pin in the handle finally let go. I could just fix it, but as good as this little saw was (way better than you might guess from looking at it) Ive been wanting to build that nicer saw that really works too. I though this was probably the time.

The new saw will be made of oak. I still have some left from the broken library chair episode. After making some cardboard templates, I traced the design onto the stock. I decided to make the handle convex where my hand will hold it, much like a panel saw handle, rather than the more standard concave bowsaw handle. Im not sure if this will end up being a good idea or a bad idea. Ill know soon enough.


I prefer to do the mortising while the stock is still square. The setup is easy with the holdfasts. The big (giant!) mortise chisel and mallet do the grunt work and the smaller chisel is for cleaning out the chips and flattening the bottom:


The mortising sequence - start in the middle and work to one end (not quite to the layout line):


Back to the middle and work the other way:


Continue until the mortise is deep enough, then clean up the ends:


After laying out the tenons with the same gauge setting used for the mortises, I cut just outside the lines with a backsaw and trimmed with a shoulder plane to a snug fit.


Heres the saw so far - looking very chunky in its unshaped form:


In Part II I will shape the frame parts, make the blade assembly and create the tensioning system. After that, Ill try it out.

If history repeats itself, Ill be regluing the prototype in Part III.

The other day, when I asked my son what he was chewing, he happily exclaimed "Tums!"



Yikes! This project leapt from non-existence to the top of a long list; time to build a medicine cabinet.



From the outset I decided it would be fun (and faster) to just get started and let this one grow organically as it developed. So, no plans, only a vague idea that I wanted it to be "Shakerish". I knew where it would hang on the wall, so I also had some rough dimensions in mind.



Ive done other projects like this, and if you havent tried it, I highly recommend it. Without plans, there are no limits, and you are free to exercise your creative energy. You can play with new ideas that you, the tools, or the wood, might have. Its fun, and you cant make a mistake, because, well, there are no plans. You see? Freedom.



So, out to the shop to gather my materials. After about ten minutes, here is what I had dug out of the scrap pile:





Okay, so the hinges were not in the scrap pile...



A few more minutes of experimenting with the stock and I had a working idea of what I could make. I had one nice piece of 1x6 that was 16" long - that would be the door, which gave me the height for the case. The stiles would be cut from 1x3s, so then I could figure the width of the case. Time for the saw:





Alright - that should do it.



Following my "Keep It Simple" theme, I decided to set the back (cedar tongue and groove paneling salvaged from my brothers house) into rabbits in only the top and bottom of the case. So time to plow some rabbits:





At this point I was about 1 hour in - not bad. I started with my goal, just let things develop and had faith that it would all work out. Heres a quick look at how the case was progressing at this point:





I was out of time (shop time comes in short chunks these days - two wonderful kids, so Im not complaining...) so I called it a night.



The next time out in the shop I started with the two fastest steps - the cleats to hold the shelf and the shelf itself.



First the cleats - nothing fancy - thin stock ripped narrow and drilled to accept brads without splitting:





And for the shelf I was using a chunk of leftover scrap from my nephews folding book stand project. As usual with stock this thin, I just cut it with a knife.





Now I turned my energy to the front of the cabinet. With a plain "slab" door, I knew I wanted to add some decorative details to the front, but nothing that would look out of place - its easy to take things too far. To help me in this process, I pulled a few moulding samples from the shelf and played around with various combinations. I did this right on top of the door and stile pieces set on the bench so I could squint my eyes and take a look at things. I could also pick up the moulding samples and hold them at an angle to the light that approximated the lighting in the future home of the cabinet. This let me get a taste of how the light and shadow would play on the mouldings when the cabinet was hung.



Heres a shot of the result of this process:





In the end I decided to leave the door alone, and put a bead on the inside of each stile, and a thumbnail on the outside edge. The two samples that are butted together in the photo represent what the right hand style would look like.



The information I put on the back of each moulding sample when I created it made it easy to find the correct moulding plane for each profile. I could also check for any notes I had left such as whether the iron might need sharpening etc.





If I had been sticking longer mouldings, I would have set up the sticking board; for these short lengths I just used the end vise and bench dog to hold the stock.





The side bead is a very simple moulding plane to use (assuming it is set up properly). It has an integrated fence and stop, so you just plane until it stops cutting.



My thumbnail plain is a bit trickier. First, it cuts with the stock on edge, which takes a little getting used to, but isnt really that different. The real challenge is that it has a fence, but no stop.



What this meant is that I had to be careful that I didnt cut a curved edge by taking more away from the ends (sniping). It also meant I could significantly alter the dimensions of the stock if I just kept planing away (which is only too easy to do - its too fun!). If I was planing the edge profile on a wide board and then ripping off a stick to apply the moulding, it would not be a problem - the ripping would set the width. On this job the moulding was being stuck directly to the stile, so altering the width of the stile too much would mess things up.



The solution was to mark the edge of the board with pencil lines, so I could keep an eye on how the profile was forming, and stop as soon as it was fully formed.





Heres a shot with the profile forming:







And one of the complete moulding:





At the end of the second work session (a little less than an hour) I could loosely assemble the case and front of the cabinet to get a good sense of how it would look:





Not bad!



Next, mounting the hinges...